CLIMBING CORDILLERA BLANCA 2017

 
 
ALPAMAYO (5947 m. - 19 511 ft.), "The Most Beautiful Mountain in the World"
 

Alpamayo mountain

The Alpamayo in Quechua: (Allpa: Earth, Mayu: River) means Dirty River, name from Valley not where there was a flood, to the overflow of the Jancarurish lake, on October 20, 1950. It forms an almost perfect pyramid of ice seen by the Northern side, quebrada los Cedros - Alpamayo trekking route. Despite being considerably smaller than the

nearby mountains, it is distinguished by its unusual symmetry and lush appearance. It is one of several peaks of the massif of Santa Cruz, in the northern part of the Cordillera Blanca.

 

It is one of the most striking peaks of the Cordillera Blanca in the Peruvian Andes and has been declared by the magazine Alpinismus as "The most beautiful mountain in the world", world scenic photography competition held in Munich - Germany in 1966. Photo submitted by the Mr. Cesar Morales Arnao of Alpamayo, sided pyramid NE.

Nevado Alpamayo desde la Cumbre del Artesonraju

B. Lauterbug, R. Schmidt and F. Sigrist expedition Switzerland in 1948, were the first to climb the glacier from the Jancarurish lake and reaching the Col North.

 

Franco-Belgian Expedition of 1951 climbed the north ridge to the North Summit 5930 m

 

On July 20, 1957 Günter Hauser and his colleagues warned the error to ascend by the South edge to the true Summit of Alpamayo, South Summit 5947 m.

 

Both peaks are separated by an edge with dizzying cornices that Britons Bathgate and Smith toured in July 1966.

The further ascent route employed in recent years located in the face SW, that is entered by the quebrada de Santa Cruz, opened by an expedition of Italian alpinists led by C. Ferrari on June 20, 1975, it is considered a difficult route that requires crampons and technique ice axe.

 

The scene that comes before the eyes of the climber, in which icy walls of Huandoy Norte, Artesonraju and Huascaran Norte, much resemble the geography of the Himalayas.

 

There is an alternative route known as the Direct Francesa, which has been done in recent years. It is optional and not strictly necessary to the accomplishment of some climbs or as acclimatization trekking routes, the ALPAMAYO requires a mid-level technical climbing route that follows has a slope between 55° to 90° in its part more slope inclination and a distance of 400 meters of wall.

Approach Route to Base Camp:
From Huaraz to the Alpamayo Base Camp: is reached via the Huaraz - Caraz (68 km) paved road, from here continue on road of Caraz - Cashpampa (30 km). Starts with the walk of ascent until the first camp of Llamacorral (3760 m.), ascending by the Santa Cruz Valley, reaching the Alpamayo Base camp, in the second camp. It requires usually 2 days for this approach.

 

Climbing Route
The route of ascent from the Base Camp in the Arhuaycocha gully I high field is not technically difficult, the first part of the ascent is in zone of shrubs as it progresses, is changing of ground moraine with large and polished rocks, the trail is slightly marked, milestones that are pointing the path can be seen, there are some platforms in the moraine area ideal for

Nevado Alpamayo visto desde el Campo I

camping (moraine camp), after entering the glacier goes ascending on easy ramps and dodging cracks, until reaching collado, last once the wall of the Hill (approximately 80 m. in 55° - 65°), then descends to High Camp I - 5400 m. located between the mountains of Quitaraju and Alpamayo.

 

From 5400 m. High Camp is descendant to the base of the wall, then it moves up through the lower part of the bergschrund, already on the wall is between 55° to 80° and 90° in the final part , the continuous channel up to the Summit, descends along the same route to High Camp.

 

By:

 

Scheler Torres Agama

Scheler Artizon Trek EIRL - Scheler Trekking & Expediciones

Official Tourist Guide / Official Trekking Guide

Member of the Trekking Guide Association of Peru (AGTP)

Virgen María Auxiliadora Yungar Cordillera Blanca
Laguna Jatuncocha Santa Cruz Llanganuco Trek
Cara SE del Nevado Alpamayo

PROGRAM INFORMATION

 
Duration of the program:
06 - 07 days.
Type of circuit:
Climbing - adventure - scenic - landscape.
Activity:
Climbing.
Altitude:
5947 m. (19,507 ft).

Location:

 

 

Caraz - Callejón de Huaylas - Cordillera Blanca. Alpamayo Valley (North) - Arhuaycocha Valley (South East).

Massif:
Santa Cruz - Cordillera Blanca.

Coordinates:

 

8° 52′ 44″ S

77° 39′ 10″ W

Approach path:

 

Caraz - Cashapampa - Santa Cruz Valley - Arhuaycocha Valley.

First ascent:

 

 

 

On July 20, 1957 Günter Hauser and his colleagues warned error ascends the South ridge to the true Alpamayo Summit, South Summit 5947 m.
Escalation path:
French directly. SW Face.
Minimum altitude:
Caraz 2290 m.
Maximum altitude:
Alpamayo Summit 5947 m.
Degree of difficulty:
D+ - Hard - Technical Climbing.
Season:
June to August.
Climate:
Cold, dry and temperate.

Group size:

 

From 01 to more people in a group, more than 15 people, the group is divided.
Fixed departures:
June to August 2017
Program code:
SAT/ECB 014-E
 

ITINERARY

 
Ruta Francesa directa Nevado Alpamayo

ITINERARY 07 days:

Day 1: Huaraz 3100 m. - Caraz 2290 m. - Cashapampa 2973 m. - Llamacorral 3760 m.

Travel by bus about 3 hours. Walk approximately 5 to 6 hours.

Departure and transfer from Huaraz to Caraz city, then the town of Cashapampa, from this town started the trek to the Llamacorral Camp .


Day 2: Llama Corral 3760 m. - Alpamayo Base Camp 4300 m. Walk approximately 4 to 5 hours.

Departure after breakfast, you will visit Ichiccocha and Jatuncocha lakes, in the way we see the snowcapped as Aguja, Caraz, Quitaraju, Pumapampa, Curuicashajana, Taulliraju, Rinrinjirca, Alpamayo, Pucarashta, Pucahirca, Artesonraju,

Paria, Millishraju, etc.. Arriving at the Base Camp of Alpamayo in the Valley Arhuaycocha, installation and preparation of materials for climbing.

 

Day 3: Base Camp 4300 m. - High Camp 5400 m. (Coll Camp Quitaraju - Alpamayo). Walk approximately 6 to 7 hours.

Departure after breakfast, climb up the moraine and then enter the glacier east of Alpamayo; Camp I, is the High Camp or Col of Alpamayo and Quitaraju mountains, glacier camp at 5400 m.

 

Day 4: High Camp 5400 m. - Alpamayo Summit 5947 m. Climbing approximately 9 to 12 hours.

Approximate departure at 1:00 a.m. Ascent at 55-75 degrees of inclination of 400 m. approximately wall. Return to Camp I at approximately 11:00 am

 

Day 5: High Camp 5400 m. - Base Camp 4300 m. Walk approximately 5 to 6 hours.

Descent to the glacier and moraine to Base Camp.

 

Day 6: Base Camp 4300 m. - Llamacorral 3760 m. Walk approximately 4 to 5 hours.

Descent to the Santa Cruz Valley to the Llamacorral Camp.

Day 7: Llamacorral 3760 m. - Cashapampa - Huaraz. Walk approximately 3 to 4 hours. Travel by bus about 3 hours.

Descent along of Santa Cruz gorge to the village of Cashapampa. Transfer to Huaraz on private transport, transfer to hotel. End of our services.

 

 

06 DAYS OPTION:

 

Sixth day descent  from the Base Camp 4300 m. to the village of Cashapampa - Huaraz. Walk approximately 7 to 8 hours. Travel by bus about 3 hours. Transfer to Huaraz on private transport, transfer to hotel. End of our services.

Nevado Santa Cruz desde la Pared del Alpamayo
 

IMPORTANT


The itinerary is a role model, however, situations such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides, political unrest, strikes, manifestations, changes in government regulations or other disadvantage of force majeure, this program can make changes.

The programs of tours, trekking and climbing are made according to our experience of work .

Minimum 3 people in the group. Are also private departures of 1-2 people.

 

The GUIDE is the key to success in a mountain.

We work with Official High Mountain Guides, bilingual (English / Spanish), our guides are qualified professionals, with extensive experience, responsibility, safety in the mountains and accredited (with canet) to work in the National Park Huascaran, Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and other climbing routes.

 

Do not be fooled by false guides, require the card that identifies a
Tour, Trekking or Mountain Guide.

 
  •  INCLUDES
  • NOT INCLUDES
  • PHOTOS
  • MAP

OUR SERVICES INCLUDE

 

CLIMBING CORDILLERA BLANCA: ALPAMAYO MOUNTAIN

  • Briefing with the guide the day before the climb.
  • Qualified professional mountain guide, bilingual (English / Spanish).

  • Assistant guide more than 4 people.

  • High Mountain Porters. Base Camp - High Camp - Base Camp.

  • Cook.

  • Assistant cook more than 6 people.

  • Donkey drivers, donkeys (15 to 20 kilos per person, baggage and personal clothing). More than 05 people emergency horse.

  • Transfer from Huaraz to different start and end points of the Climbing in private transport.

  • High mountain camping tent (03 squares are for the use of 02 people).

  • Mattress.

  • Toilet tent at base camp.

  • Kitchen tent, dining tent at base camp.

  • All Kitchen and dining equipment, plates, cups, utensils etc.

  • Tables, chairs, lamps in base camp.
  • All meals during the climb (vegetarian option). Breakfast, pick nicks, lunch and dinner.

  • Basic First aid kit.
  • Radio Communicator and cellular (coverage areas).

  • Permanent and personalized assistance from our Travel "Scheler Artizon Trek". Complete pre-departure, extension services or others themes.

  • Acclimatization hikes: Churup lake, lake 69, Llaca lake,  Ahuac lake, Wilcahuain - Monterey, Cordillera Negra - Wilcacocha lake, Uruscocha lake, Portachuelo - LlanganucoValley, Viewpoint Rataquenua - Pucaventana.

  • Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca.

  • Collective mountain equipment for climbing Alpamayo mountain (ropes, stakes, screws, slings, tapes, etc.).

  • Nights hotel in Lima and Huaraz according to the program, in rooms (single, double or triple) with private bath, Tv, cable and Breakfast included.

  • Assistance service, pickup and transfers from the Jorge Chavez International Airport in Lima, by our staff.

  • Bus tickets Lima - Huaraz - Lima, special service, via OLTURSA www.oltursa.pe, CRUZ DEL SUR www.cruzdelsur.com.pe or MOVIL TOURS www.moviltours.com.pe.

OUR SERVICES NOR INCLUDED

SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT LIST FOR CLIMBING:

 

Clothing and equipment recommended

 

Feet
- 2 pairs of socks interior polypropylene.
- 2 pairs of thick socks cotton.
- 1 pair of hiking boots or shoes for the approximations.
- 1 pair of gaiters.


Legs
- 1 Pants interior fine synthetic.
- 1 coat pants.
- 1 Pants goretex or waterproof.
- 1 Pants long and comfortable for trekking.

Trunk
- 2 sweatshirts synthetic interior
- 1 Polar fleece
- 1 Fleece jacket or similar
- 1 Rain jacket or goretex.
- 1 Down jacket


Head
- Sunhat.
- Hat coat.
- Balaclava.
- Buff or scarf.
- 1 sunglasses 100% UV.
- 1 Ski goggles or blizzards.

 

Hands
- 2 pairs of gloves interior fine.
- 1 Pair of warm gloves in waterproof or goretex.


 

Expedition material
- Books, maps, Mp3 (optional).
- Camera, batteries.

- Binoculars (optional).
- Sunscreen (SPF 30-45).
- Sun lips (SPF 30-45).
- Insect repellent.
- Water bottle (at least 1 lt) with or without thermal liner. Camelbak (optional).
- Insulating mattress (neoprene or inflatable).
- Duct tape
- Toiletries bag.
- First aid kit for personal use.
- Headlamp with spare batteries.
- A 1 lt stainless steel thermos. with or without thermal cover (insulation) (optional).
- 1 Synthetic or down sleeping bag (- 15° C / - 20° C approximately).

Technical team
- Travel bag or backpack expedition for transportation of loads on donkeys or a backpack of at least 70 liters with pick holder and a place to fix the crampons. For the portaging of Base Camp to the High Camp I.
- A small and comfortable backpack of 40 lts.
- 1 Pair of double mountaineering boots (plastic outer) and temperature (- 20 ° C / - 25 ° C approximately).
- 1 Pair of crampons, according to the type of boot.
- 1 Pair of adjustable trekking poles (telescopic).
- 1 Pair of technical ice axes for technical mountain.
-  Harness, carabiners: safe and simple, 1 eight or atc rappel device, line, tape.
- 1 Climbing helmet.
- Stakes, bolts of ice, yumars, etc.
- At least 60 mts ropes.

   

Equipment rental:
Rental price in US$ (U.S. Dollars) per day:

Equipo Costo   Equipo Costo
- Personal tent (2 places)
5.00 us$
  - Down jacket
3.00 us$
- Personal tent (1 place)
4.00 us$
  - Crampons
3.50 us$
- Sleeping bag
4.00 us$
  - Plastic mountaineering boots
5.00 us$
- Simple mattress
1.50 us$
  - Harness
4.00 us$
- Inflatable mattress
3.00 us$
  - Glacier travel ice axes
3.00 us$
- Backpack (small 40 litres)
2.00 us$
  - Technical mountaineering ice axes (pair)
7.00 us$
- Backpack (large 70 litre)
5.00 us$
  - Climbing helmet
2.50 us$
- MSR Multifuel stove
4.00 us$
  - Gaiters or leggings
2.50 us$
   

ADDITIONAL PAYMENTS:

  • Extra services not mentioned in the itinerary.

  • Air flights from your country round-trip.

  • Extra nights of hotel in different cities during his stays.

  • Drinks and food in the cities of Lima, Huaraz, or another city during your stay.

  • Taxi, laundry, telephone calls, etc.

  • Extra days for delayed departures or arrivals anticipated.

  • Taxes at the Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima: TUUA Domestic Flights US$ 10.64 (S/. 31.81) - ​TUUA International flights US$ 30.74 (S/. 91.91) - departures flights aerodrome of Nazca USD 7.50 (S/. 24.50) per person.

  • The TUUA is the rate of use of airport and is included in the ticket only for some destinations. Taxes are determined by the Peruvian Government and are subject to change without notice.

  • Additional expenses which may arise in various situations, contingencies, such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides of land, political unrest, strikes, demonstrations, changes in the regulations of the government, etc.

  • Rescue, repatriation, medications, medical tests and hospitalization costs.

  • Medical insurance, travel, evacuation, rescue and emergency if necessary. (We can manage it).

  • Rental of equipment for trekking or mountain.

  • Nor include the first breakfast, lunch and the last dinner on the routes of trekking and climbing.
  • Not include tips.

  • Minimum 3 people in the group.
  • Departures in deprived of 1-2 people.

NOTE:

   
Inicio de la expedición Cashapampa
 
Desvio de Alpamayo y Punta Unión - Cordillera Blanca
 
Nevado Alpamayo
 
Rumbo al Campo I del Nevado Alpamayo
Inicio del Trekking en Santa Cruz
 
Rutas Alpamayo Climb y Santa Cruz Trek
 
Rumbo del Campo Base al Campo I del Nevado Alpamayo - Ruta Normal
 
Pirámide Alpamayo - Cara Norte

ROUTE MAP CLIMBING ALPAMAYO MOUNTAIN

 

       
BUS TOURS TREK CORDILLERA BLANCA TREK CORDILLERA HUAYHUASH CLIMBINGBING
- Llanganuco Lake - 69 Lake - Pisco Base Camp - Cordillera Huayhuash - Diablo Mudo - Climbing Maparaju
- Chavín Archeological Remains - Quilcayhuanca trek - Huayhuash Pumarinri - Diablo Mudo - Climbing Huapi
- Pastoruri Mountain - Quilcayhuanca - Cojup Fast - Trekking Cordillera Huayhuash - Climbing Vallunaraju
- City Tours Huaraz - Monterrey - Quilcayhuanca - Cojup - Trek Cordillera Huayhuash Fast - Climbing Ishinca
- Cañón del Pato (Duck Canyon) - Olleros - Chavín - Cordillera Huayhuash - Cutatambo - Climbing Urus
- Honcopampa - Chancos - Cojup - Ishinca - Huayhuash Cutatambo 15 days - Climbing Vicos
- Paron lake - Ishinca - Cojup - Cordillera Huayhuash - Cajatambo - Climbing Pisco
- Stone Forest of Hatunmachay - Aquilpo - Ishinca - Huayhuash - Cajatambo Fast - Climbing Yanapaccha
  - Quilcayhuanca - Cojup - Ishinca - Cordillera Huayhuash - Churin - Climbing Tocllaraju
ACCLIMATIZATION - Quilcayhuanca Cojup Ishinca Aquilpo - Huayhuash Short-Trek 04 days - Climbing Ranrapalca
- Churup Lake - Honda - Ulta - Huayhuash Short-Trek 03 days - Climbing Copa
- 69 Lake - Ulta - Llanganuco - Huanucopampa - Huayhuash Trek - Climbing Chopicalqui
- Llaca Lake - Santa Cruz - Llanganuco - Huanucopampa Huayhuash Short-Trek - Climbing Huascarán
- Ahuac Lake - Llanganuco - Santa Cruz - Huanucopampa Huayhuash Short-Trek II - Climbing Alpamayo
- Wilcahuain - Monterrey - Huaraz - Santa Cruz - 69 Lake - Cordillera Huayhuash Crossing - Climbing Quitaraju
- Wilcacocha - Cordillera Negra - Santa Cruz - Yuraccorral - Huayhuash Crossing - Diablo Mudo - Climbing Artesonraju
- Uruscocha Lake - Santa Cruz - Colcabamba - Ulta - Huayhuash Huanucopampa Crossing
- Portachuelo - Llanganuco Valley - Ulta - Santa Cruz - Cashapampa  
- Viewpoint Rataquenua - Pucaventana - Cedros - Alpamayo - Pomabamba INFORMATION HUARAZ PERÚ - Callejón de Huaylas
- Rajucolta Lake 02 days - Cedros - Alpamayo - Vaqueria - Región Ancash - Province of Recuay
- Quilcayhuanca Tullpacocha Lake - Cedros - Alpamayo - Vaqueria - Ulta - Cordillera Blanca - Province of Huaraz
- Auquiscocha Lake 02 days - Cedros - Alpamayo - Santa Cruz - Huascaran National Park - Province of Carhuaz
- Aquilpo Lake 02 days - Cedros - Alpamayo - Llanganuco - Cordillera Huayhuash - Province of Yungay
- Ishinca Trek 02 days - Cedros - Alpamayo - 69 Lake - Huayhuash Reserved Zone - Province of Huaylas
     
Turismo, Trekking, Climbing Cordillera Blanca, Huayhuash,  Huaraz, Arequipa, Cusco, Lima, Perú