CLIMBING CORDILLERA BLANCA 2021

 
 
CHOPICALQUI (6025 m. - 20841 ft.), "The Younger Brother of Huascaran"
 

Escalada nevado Chopicalqui 6354 m. Cordillera  Blanca

The Chopicalqui is a mountain of 6345 m., could be considered the third Huascarán or Huascarán East, because they are located within the Massif. One of the six miles of the Cordillera Blanca more ascended annually, thanks to the low technical difficulty that presents its Normal SW route, with short and direct access

to its high Summit, located in the heart of the most renowned area of the mountain range, offers a privileged panoramic view. Its name comes from the quechua: chawpi (Center) and callqui (which fits or that), as well as his name means "that fits to the Center".

 

It is located in the province of Yungay, the mountain is located exactly at the end of the Llanganuco Valley, which is flanked to the North by the Huandoy Mountain and the impressive Chacraraju and Huascaran South and North. The road that goes to the Valley borders the beautiful lakes of Llanganuco Emerald: Chinancocha (female lake) and Orconcocha (male lake), both surrounded by forests of queñuales (Polylepis spp.), trees that grow in the heights and constitute the woody species that exists at a higher altitude in the world.

 

The first ascent of the Chopicalqui was on August 03, 1932. That year, the first expedition of the DAV (Deutscher Alpenverein) was performed in the Cordillera Blanca, led by Philip Borchers (DE). After failing in the Champara and Contrahierbas, and made the first ascent of Huascarán Sur, Borchers (DE), E. Schneider (DE), H. Hoerlin (DE)  and E. Hein (DE), reached the Summit of Chopicalqui, following the edge SW. Days later conducted several first ascents, including the Artesonraju and North Huandoy.

Valle de Ulta, Nevados de Ulta, Chequiaraju, Hualcán y Copa

By:

Scheler Torres Agama

* Peruvian Official Tourism & Trekking Guide

* Graduated from the Center for High Mountain Studies - CEAM - House of Guides in Huaraz - Peru

* Member of the Regional Association of Official Tourism Guides - Ancash (ARGOT - Ancash)

* Member of the Association of Official Trekking Guides of Peru (AGOCP), official member of the Unión of International Mountain Leaders Associations (UIMLA).

 

Scheler Artizon Trek EIRL

Scheler Trekking & Expediciones Perú

Expeditions to the Cordilleras Blanca & Huayhuash

* Member of the Association of Travel Agencies and Tour Operators - Ancash (AAVOTA)

 

www.schelerhuayhuashtrek.com

www.trekkinghuayhuashperu.com

 

Nevado Pisco y Chacraraju desde el Chopicalqui
Laguna de Llanganuco
Laguna Chinancocha - Llanganuco

PROGRAM INFORMATION

 
Duration of the program:
04 - 05 - 06 days.
Type of circuit:

Climbing - adventure - scenic - landscape.

Activity:

Climbing.

Altitude:
6354 m. (20,841 ft).

Location:

 

 

Yungay - Callejón de Huaylas - Cordillera Blanca. Llanganuco - Ancush Valley (North) - Ulta Valley (South).
Massif:
Huandoy - Cordillera Blanca.

Coordinates:

 

9° 5′ 12″ S

77° 34′ 26″ W

Approach path:

Llanganuco Valley - Ancush (Km. 36).

First ascent:

 

 

 

 

The first ascent of Chopicalqui was August 3, 1932 by the DAV (Deutscher Alpenverein), by Philip Borchers (DE), H. Hoerlin (DE), E. Schneider (DE), and E. Hein (DE), crested Chopicalqui, following the SW ridge.
Escalation path:

Normal route edge SW.

Minimum altitude:
Yungay 2500 m.
Maximum altitude:
Chopicalqui Summit 6354 m.
Degree of difficulty:
PD - Little Difficult - Climbing Moderate.
Season:
June to August.
Climate:
Cold, dry and temperate.

Group size:

 

From 01 to more people in a group, more than 15 people, the group is divided.
Fixed departures:

June to August

Program code:
SAT/ECB 012-E
 

ITINERARY

 
Nevado Chopicalqui cara Oeste

ITINERARY 06 days:

Day 1: Huaraz - Yungay - Llanganuco Valley - Curve Ancush (Km 36) 4200 m. - Chopicalqui Base Camp 4400 m. Travel by bus about 3 hours. Walk approximately 4 to 5 hours.

Transfer from Huaraz to Yungay, then to the deviation to the route Chopicalqui at 36 km., in the gorge of LLanganuco - Ancush; from here the walk starts to the Chopicalqui Base Camp, camping area.


Day 2: Chopicalqui Base Camp 4400 m. - Chopicalqui Moraine Camp 4900 m. Walk approximately 5 to 6 hours.

On the way you can see the peaks of Huascaran, Pisco, Huandoy, Chacraraju, Yanapaccha. This day is walking uphill for the moraine camp.

Day 3: Chopicalqui Moraine Camp 4900 m. - High Camp 5300 m. Walk approximately 5 to 6 hours.

We walk for about 30° degrees about; in the High Camp will have a spectacular view.

 

Día 4: High Camp 5300 m. - Chopicalqui Summit 6354 m. - High Camp 5300 m. Climbing approximately 9 to 12 hours.

This day is a hard day. The view from top is incomparable, because this mountain is located in the heart of the most attractive part of the Cordillera Blanca, with views of the mountains as Huandoy, Pisco, Chacraraju, Yanapaccha, Artesonraju, Quitaraju, etc... Consider 6 hours from high camp to the summit. The descent is by the same route, we recommend rappelling in the sections of climbing.

 

Day 5: High Camp 5300 m. - Chopicalqui Base Camp 4400 m. Walk approximately 6 to 7 hours.

This day we descend to reach the base camp.

 

Día 6: Chopicalqui Base Camp 4400 m. - Caraz - Huaraz. Travel by bus about 3 hours. Walk approximately 3 to 4 hours.

Walk down the road, back to Yungay, later to Huaraz. Transfer to hotel, end of our services.

05 DAYS OPTION:

 

First day arrival to the Base Camp.
Second day Camp on the Moraine.
Third day Heig Camp.
Fourth day after the Summit descent to Moraine Camp.

 


Fifth day descent from the Moraine Camp 4900 m. to the intersection of Ancush / LLanganuco Km 32 - Yungay - Huaraz. Walk about 7 to 8 hours. Travel by bus about 3 hours. Transfer to Huaraz on private transport, transfer to hotel. End of our services.

Atardecer en el Chopicalqui
Descenso del Chopicalqui

04 DAYS OPTION:

 

First day arrival to the Base Camp.

Second day High Camp.
Third day after the Summit descent to Moraine Camp.

 

 

Fourth day descent from the Moraine Camp 4900 m. to the intersection of Ancush / LLanganuco Km 32 - Yungay - Huaraz. Walk about 7 to 8 hours. Travel by bus about 3 hours. Transfer to Huaraz on private transport, transfer to hotel. End of our services.

 
 

IMPORTANT


The itinerary is a role model, however, situations such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides, political unrest, strikes, manifestations, changes in government regulations or other disadvantage of force majeure, this program can make changes.

The programs of tours, trekking and climbing are made according to our experience of work .

Minimum 3 people in the group. Are also private departures of 1-2 people.

 

The GUIDE is the key to success in a mountain.

We work with Official High Mountain Guides, bilingual (English / Spanish), our guides are qualified professionals, with extensive experience, responsibility, safety in the mountains and accredited (with canet) to work in the National Park Huascaran, Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and other climbing routes.

 

Do not be fooled by false guides, require the card that identifies a
Tour, Trekking or Mountain Guide.

 
  •  INCLUDES
  • NOT INCLUDES
  • PHOTOS
  • MAP

OUR SERVICES INCLUDE

 

CLIMBING CORDILLERA BLANCA: CHOPICALQUI MOUNTAIN

  • Briefing with the guide the day before the climb.
  • Qualified professional mountain guide, bilingual (English / Spanish).

  • Assistant guide more than 4 people.

  • High Mountain Porters. Base Camp - High Camp - Base Camp.

  • Cook.

  • Assistant cook more than 6 people.

  • Donkey drivers, donkeys (15 to 20 kilos per person, baggage and personal clothing).

  • More than 05 people emergency horse.

  • Transfer from Huaraz to different start and end points of the Climbing in private transport.

  • High mountain camping tent (03 squares are for the use of 02 people).

  • Mattress.

  • Toilet tent at base camp.

  • Kitchen tent, dining tent at base camp.

  • All Kitchen and dining equipment, plates, cups, utensils etc.

  • Tables, chairs, lamps in base camp.
  • All meals during the climb (vegetarian option). Breakfast, pick nicks, lunch and dinner.

  • Basic First aid kit.
  • Radio Communicator and cellular (coverage areas).

  • Permanent and personalized assistance from our Travel "Scheler Artizon Trek". Complete pre-departure, extension services or others themes.

  • Collective mountain equipment for climbing Chopicalqui mountain (ropes, stakes, screws, slings, tapes, etc.).

OUR SERVICES NOR INCLUDED

SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT LIST FOR CLIMBING:

 

Clothing and equipment recommended

 

Feet
- 2 pairs of socks interior polypropylene.
- 2 pairs of thick socks cotton.
- 1 pair of hiking boots or shoes for the approximations.
- 1 pair of gaiters.


Legs
- 1 Pants interior fine synthetic.
- 1 coat pants.
- 1 Pants goretex or waterproof.
- 1 Pants long and comfortable for trekking.

Trunk
- 2 sweatshirts synthetic interior
- 1 Polar fleece
- 1 Fleece jacket or similar
- 1 Rain jacket or goretex.
- 1 Down jacket


Head
- Sunhat.
- Hat coat.
- Balaclava.
- Buff or scarf.
- 1 sunglasses 100% UV.
- 1 Ski goggles or blizzards.

 

Hands
- 2 pairs of gloves interior fine.
- 1 Pair of warm gloves in waterproof or goretex.


 

Expedition material
- Books, maps, Mp3 (optional).
- Camera, batteries.

- Binoculars (optional).
- Sunscreen (SPF 30-45).
- Sun lips (SPF 30-45).
- Insect repellent.
- Water bottle (at least 1 lt) with or without thermal liner. Camelbak (optional).
- Insulating mattress (neoprene or inflatable).
- Duct tape
- Toiletries bag.
- First aid kit for personal use.
- Headlamp with spare batteries.
- A 1 lt stainless steel thermos. with or without thermal cover (insulation) (optional).
- 1 Synthetic or down sleeping bag (- 15° C / - 20° C approximately).

Technical team
- Travel bag or backpack expedition for transportation of loads on donkeys or a backpack of at least 70 liters with pick holder and a place to fix the crampons. For the portaging of Base Camp to the High Camp I.
- A small and comfortable backpack of 40 lts.
- 1 Pair of double mountaineering boots (plastic outer) and temperature (- 20 ° C / - 25 ° C approximately).
- 1 Pair of crampons, according to the type of boot.
- 1 Pair of adjustable trekking poles (telescopic).
- 1 Pair of technical ice axes for technical mountain.
-  Harness, carabiners: safe and simple, 1 eight or atc rappel device, line, tape.
- 1 Climbing helmet.
- Stakes, bolts of ice, yumars, etc.
- At least 60 mts ropes.

   

Equipment rental:
Rental price in US$ (U.S. Dollars) per day:

 

 

Equipo Costo   Equipo Costo
- Personal tent (2 places)
5.00 us$
  - Down jacket
4.00 us$
- Personal tent (1 place)
4.00 us$
  - Crampons
3.50 us$
- Sleeping bag
4.00 us$
  - Plastic mountaineering boots
5.00 us$
- Simple mattress
2.00 us$
  - Harness
4.00 us$
- Inflatable mattress
4.00 us$
  - Glacier travel ice axes
3.00 us$
- Backpack (small 40 litres)
3.00 us$
  - Technical mountaineering ice axes (pair)
8.00 us$
- Backpack (large 70 litre)
5.00 us$
  - Climbing helmet
3.50 us$
- MSR Multifuel stove
4.00 us$
  - Gaiters or leggings
3.00 us$
   

ADDITIONAL PAYMENTS:

  • Extra services not mentioned in the itinerary.

  • Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca. (S/ 30.00 per person "US$ 10.00", valid for 01 day).
  • Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca. (S/ 60.00 per person "US$ 20.00", valid for more 3 days).
  • Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca. (S/ 150.00 per person "US$ 50.00", valid for 4 to 30 days).
  • Acclimatization hikes: Churup lake, lake 69, Llaca lake,  Ahuac lake, Wilcahuain - Monterey, Cordillera Negra - Wilcacocha lake, Uruscocha lake, Portachuelo - LlanganucoValley, Viewpoint Rataquenua - Pucaventana.
  • Extra nights of hotel in different cities during his stays.

  • Bus Tickets Lima - Huaraz - Lima, special service bus - bed, bus semi - bed via, recommended: OLTURSA www.oltursa.pe, CRUZ DEL SUR www.cruzdelsur.com.pe or MOVIL TOURS www.moviltours.com.pe
  • Air flights from your country round-trip.

  • Assistance service, pick up and transfers from the Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima, by our staff, consult.

  • Tax rate at the Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima: The TUUA is The Airport Tariff or Unified Airport Use Fee is related to the various services provided by LAP to passengers at the facilities of the Jorge Chávez International Airport, during the formalities of passenger dispatch, equipment, cargo and mail.
  • TUUA INTERNATIONAL ​US$30.43 ​S/.102.56​
    TUUA NATIONAL ​US$11.48 ​S/.38.69
  • The rate includes IGV.
    The National and International TUUA is included in the air tickets. Taxes are determined by the Peruvian government and are subject to change without prior notice. For more details about the TUUA, we would appreciate checking the following links: Rates and 2019 Access Charges, Frequently Asked Questions.
  • Drinks and food in the cities of Lima, Huaraz, or another city during your stay.

  • Taxi, laundry, telephone calls, etc.

  • Extra days for delayed departures or arrivals anticipated.
  • Additional expenses which may arise in various situations, contingencies, such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides of land, political unrest, strikes, demonstrations, changes in the regulations of the government, etc.

  • Additional expenses that arise in various situations like: Rescue and emergency insurance if necessary, Medical, travel, evacuation (We can manage it), repatriation, medications, medical exams and hospitalization expenses.
  • Rental of equipment for trekking or mountain.

  • Nor include the first breakfast, lunch and the last dinner on the routes of trekking and climbing.
  • Not include tips for the sttaf.

  • Minimum 3 people in the group.
  • Departures in deprived of 1-2 people.

NOTE:

   
Virgen María Auxiliadora Yungar Cordillera Blanca
 
Ruta a la Cumbre del Pisco
 
Nevado Alpamayo
 
Nevado Chopicalqui y la ruta normal
Nevado Chacraraju desde el Chopicalqui
 
Huandoy desde la cumbre del Chopicalqui
 
Rumbo del Campo Base al Campo I del Nevado Alpamayo - Ruta Normal
 
Ruta a la Cumbre del Chopicalqui

ROUTE MAP CLIMBING CHOPICALQUI MOUNTAIN

 

       
BUS TOURS TREK CORDILLERA BLANCA TREK CORDILLERA HUAYHUASH CLIMBINGBING
- Llanganuco Lake - 69 Lake - Pisco Base Camp - Cordillera Huayhuash - Diablo Mudo - Climbing Maparaju
- Chavín Archeological Remains - Quilcayhuanca trek - Huayhuash Pumarinri - Diablo Mudo - Climbing Huapi
- Pastoruri Mountain - Quilcayhuanca - Cojup Fast - Trekking Cordillera Huayhuash - Climbing Vallunaraju
- City Tours Huaraz - Monterrey - Quilcayhuanca - Cojup - Trek Cordillera Huayhuash Fast - Climbing Ishinca
- Cañón del Pato (Duck Canyon) - Olleros - Chavín - Cordillera Huayhuash - Cutatambo - Climbing Urus
- Honcopampa - Chancos - Cojup - Ishinca - Huayhuash Cutatambo 15 days - Climbing Vicos
- Paron lake - Ishinca - Cojup - Cordillera Huayhuash - Cajatambo - Climbing Pisco
- Stone Forest of Hatunmachay - Aquilpo - Ishinca - Huayhuash - Cajatambo Fast - Climbing Yanapaccha
  - Quilcayhuanca - Cojup - Ishinca - Cordillera Huayhuash - Churin - Climbing Tocllaraju
ACCLIMATIZATION - Quilcayhuanca Cojup Ishinca Aquilpo - Huayhuash Short-Trek 04 days - Climbing Ranrapalca
- Churup Lake - Honda - Ulta - Huayhuash Short-Trek 03 days - Climbing Copa
- 69 Lake - Ulta - Llanganuco - Huanucopampa - Huayhuash Trek - Climbing Chopicalqui
- Llaca Lake - Santa Cruz - Llanganuco - Huanucopampa Huayhuash Short-Trek - Climbing Huascarán
- Ahuac Lake - Llanganuco - Santa Cruz - Huanucopampa Huayhuash Short-Trek II - Climbing Alpamayo
- Wilcahuain - Monterrey - Huaraz - Santa Cruz - 69 Lake - Cordillera Huayhuash Crossing - Climbing Quitaraju
- Wilcacocha - Cordillera Negra - Santa Cruz - Yuraccorral - Huayhuash Crossing - Diablo Mudo - Climbing Artesonraju
- Uruscocha Lake - Santa Cruz - Colcabamba - Ulta - Huayhuash Huanucopampa Crossing
- Portachuelo - Llanganuco Valley - Ulta - Santa Cruz - Cashapampa  
- Viewpoint Rataquenua - Pucaventana - Cedros - Alpamayo - Pomabamba INFORMATION HUARAZ PERÚ - Callejón de Huaylas
- Rajucolta Lake 02 days - Cedros - Alpamayo - Vaqueria - Región Ancash - Province of Recuay
- Quilcayhuanca Tullpacocha Lake - Cedros - Alpamayo - Vaqueria - Ulta - Cordillera Blanca - Province of Huaraz
- Auquiscocha Lake 02 days - Cedros - Alpamayo - Santa Cruz - Huascaran National Park - Province of Carhuaz
- Aquilpo Lake 02 days - Cedros - Alpamayo - Llanganuco - Cordillera Huayhuash - Province of Yungay
- Ishinca Trek 02 days - Cedros - Alpamayo - 69 Lake - Huayhuash Reserved Zone - Province of Huaylas
     
Turismo, Trekking, Climbing Cordillera Blanca, Huayhuash,  Huaraz, Arequipa, Cusco, Lima, Perú