CLIMBING CORDILLERA BLANCA 2017

 
 
HUASCARAN (6768 m. - 22 204 ft.), "The Highest Mountain of Peru"
 

Escalada Nevado Huascarán Norte 6655 m. - Sur 6768 m.

The Huascaran massif is best known and highest elevation of all ranges of the Peruvian Andes, in the Cordillera Blanca, in the Province of Yungay, it's only three snow mountains: Huascaran Soth 6768 m. the highest peak in Peru, Huascaran North 6655 m. and Chopicalqui 6354 m. and its name to the National Park,

and every year there is huge number of ascents, is the tallest tropical snowy land. The north face of Huascaran presents a rock of almost a thousand meters, for excellent climbing.

Its name comes from the Quechua waskha (string) and ran (stones or rocky mountains), so Huascarán means "mountain." Another version says that the name could derive from Huascán snow, which appears on the map of Peru, Ancash Department, Antonio Raimondi (1873). There are several legends about the origin of the name Huascaran, but the most likely is a dedication to the Inca Huascar, "The Inca Huayna Capac when by Yungay Was he named his eldest son Huascar to the highest and beautiful mountain ', so Huascaran that also means "The mountain of Huascar."


The conquest of the North summit, on August 2, 1908, was controversial for having questioned the rise of American Annie Peck, both of Swiss guides R. Taugwalder, G. Zum Taugwald, like his compatriot Fanny Bullock-Workman. Although some photographs of Peck to the Huascaran South could be taken near the summit of the North and the descriptions seem to match existing.


In 1932 he reached the South Summit, H. Bernard, P. Borchers, E. Hein, H. Hoerlin, E. Schneider.

The next climb was in the year 1939 by the Austro-German expedition by W. Brecht, K. Heckler, S. Roher, K. Schmidt, H. Schweiser.

Amanecer Chopicalqui y Huascaran Sur - Norte desde la Ruta al Nevado Pisco

On July 8, 1953 amounted E. San Vicente and M. Villavicencio of the Mexican expedition.

 

On August 11, 1954 S. Villanueva, G. Cornejo, A. Yanac, J. Acosta and G. Yanac, made ​​the first ascent of Peru, and the fourth recorded at this North summit.

In 1970, an earthquake caused the release of a large mass of ice, snow and rocks of the north summit, causing the complete disappearance of the town of Yungay, killing more than 20,000 people. The earthquake caused extensive damage in many cities of called small north of the Peru, from Huacho in the department of Lima to Trujillo in the department of La Libertad. As the population of Yungay was buried by the avalanche that came from Huascaran North, Musho became the new starting point to normal routes of Huascaran North and South.

 

By:

 

Scheler Torres Agama

Scheler Artizon Trek EIRL - Scheler Trekking & Expediciones

Official Tourist Guide / Official Trekking Guide

Member of the Trekking Guide Association of Peru (AGTP)

Virgen María Auxiliadora Yungar Cordillera Blanca
Campo Base Huascarán 4200 m.
Huascaran Sur - Norte Cordillera Blanca

PROGRAM INFORMATION

 
Duration of the program:
06 - 07 days.
Type of circuit:
Climbing - adventure - scenic - landscape.
Activity:

Climbing.

Altitude:
6768 m. (22,204 ft).

Location:

 

 

Yungay - Callejon de Huaylas - Cordillera Blanca. Minas Valley (West) - Ulta (South) Llanganuco - Ancush (North).
Massif:
Huascarán - Cordillera Blanca.

Coordinates:

 

9° 07′ 13″ S

77° 36′ 14″ W

Approach path:

Mancos - Musho Town - Minas Valley.

First ascent:

 

 

 

 

 

 

The conquest of the North summit, on August 2, 1908, by the American Annie Peck, with his Swiss guides R. Taugwalder, G. Zum Taugwald.
In 1932 climbed to South summit, H. Bernard, P. Borchers, E. Hein, H. Hoerlin, E. Schneider.
Escalation path:
Normal Route via La garganta NW.
Minimum altitude:
Mancos Distrit 2520 m.
Maximum altitude:

Huascaran South Summit 6768 m.

Degree of difficulty:

 

D + - Hard - Something Ascension and Technical climbing.
Season:
June to August.
Climate:
Cold, dry and temperate.

Group size:

 

From 01 to more people in a group, more than 15 people, the group is divided.
Fixed departures:
June/August 2017
Program code:
SAT/ECB 013-E
 

ITINERARY

 
Huascarán Sur 6768 m.

ITINERARY 07 days:

We recommend you make acclimatization climbs before climbing this route or to trek. After doing some acclimation, will depart for the HUASCARAN.

 

Day 1: Huaraz - Musho Town 3100 m. - Huascaran Base Camp 4200 m. Travel by bus about 2 hours. Walk approximately 5 to 6 hours.

Transfer from Huaraz city to Musho district, from here starts the trek, ascending to the Base Camp.


Day 2: Huascaran Base Camp 4200 m. - High Camp I 5300 m. Day trip approximately 5 to 6 hours.

Departure after the breakfast and climb up to glacier camp or Camp I.

Day 3: High Camp I 5300 m. - High Camp II 6000 m. Day trip approximately 5 to 6 hours.

We climb to Camp II, is passed through the channel and the avalanche zone, reaching the camp at 6000 m., in the area called the throat.

 

Day 4: High Camp II 6000 m. - Cumbre Sur 6768 m. - High Camp II 6000 m. Day trip approximately 9 to 12 hours.

Climbing to the south summit from where you have panoramic views of the Cordillera Negra, the Callejon de Huaylas and the snowy peaks of the Cordillera Blanca to the north and south, down to Camp II, it is possible descend to the Camp I, depending the physical condition. You can also try the northern summit, is needed for this one day more.

Day 5: High Camp II 6000 m. -Huascaran Base Camp 4200 m. Day trip approximately 6 to 7 hours.

Descent to Base Camp, if there is time to do dry the material.

Day 6: Extra day or rest. This day is used in case of bad weather or try to climb to the north summit.

Day 7: Huascaran Base Camp 4200 m. - Musho town - Huaraz. Walk approximately 4 to 5 hours. Travel by bus about 2 hours.

Down to Musho. Transfer to Huaraz. Transfer to hotel, end of our services.

 

06 DAYS OPTION:

 

In this option would not be necessary to have the extra day or rest.

 

Sixth day descent  from the Base Camp 4200 m. to the village of Musho - Huaraz. Walk approximately 4 to 5 hours. Travel by bus about 2 hours. Transfer to Huaraz on private transport, transfer to hotel. End of our services.

Campo I del Nevado Huascarán 5300 m.
 

IMPORTANT


The itinerary is a role model, however, situations such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides, political unrest, strikes, manifestations, changes in government regulations or other disadvantage of force majeure, this program can make changes.

The programs of tours, trekking and climbing are made according to our experience of work .

Minimum 3 people in the group. Are also private departures of 1-2 people.

 

The GUIDE is the key to success in a mountain.

We work with Official High Mountain Guides, bilingual (English / Spanish), our guides are qualified professionals, with extensive experience, responsibility, safety in the mountains and accredited (with canet) to work in the National Park Huascaran, Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and other climbing routes.

 

Do not be fooled by false guides, require the card that identifies a
Tour, Trekking or Mountain Guide.

 
  •  INCLUDES
  • NOT INCLUDES
  • PHOTOS
  • MAP

OUR SERVICES INCLUDE

 

CLIMBING CORDILLERA BLANCA: HUASCARAN MOUNTAIN

  • Briefing with the guide the day before the climb.
  • Qualified professional mountain guide, bilingual (English / Spanish).

  • Assistant guide more than 4 people.

  • High Mountain Porters. Base Camp - High Camp - Base Camp.

  • Cook.

  • Assistant cook more than 6 people.

  • Donkey drivers, donkeys (15 to 20 kilos per person, baggage and personal clothing). More than 05 people emergency horse.

  • Transfer from Huaraz to different start and end points of the Climbing in private transport.

  • High mountain camping tent (03 squares are for the use of 02 people).

  • Mattress.

  • Toilet tent at base camp.

  • Kitchen tent, dining tent at base camp.

  • All Kitchen and dining equipment, plates, cups, utensils etc.

  • Tables, chairs, lamps in base camp.
  • All meals during the climb (vegetarian option). Breakfast, pick nicks, lunch and dinner.

  • Basic First aid kit.
  • Radio Communicator and cellular (coverage areas).

  • Permanent and personalized assistance from our Travel "Scheler Artizon Trek". Complete pre-departure, extension services or others themes.

  • Acclimatization hikes: Churup lake, lake 69, Llaca lake,  Ahuac lake, Wilcahuain - Monterey, Cordillera Negra - Wilcacocha lake, Uruscocha lake, Portachuelo - LlanganucoValley, Viewpoint Rataquenua - Pucaventana.

  • Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca.

  • Collective mountain equipment for climbing Quitaraju mountain (ropes, stakes, screws, slings, tapes, etc.).

  • Nights hotel in Lima and Huaraz according to the program, in rooms (single, double or triple) with private bath, Tv, cable and Breakfast included.

  • Assistance service, pickup and transfers from the Jorge Chavez International Airport in Lima, by our staff.

  • Bus tickets Lima - Huaraz - Lima, special service, via OLTURSA www.oltursa.pe, CRUZ DEL SUR www.cruzdelsur.com.pe or MOVIL TOURS www.moviltours.com.pe.

OUR SERVICES NOR INCLUDED

SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT LIST FOR CLIMBING:

 

Clothing and equipment recommended

 

Feet
- 2 pairs of socks interior polypropylene.
- 2 pairs of thick socks cotton.
- 1 pair of hiking boots or shoes for the approximations.
- 1 pair of gaiters.


Legs
- 1 Pants interior fine synthetic.
- 1 coat pants.
- 1 Pants goretex or waterproof.
- 1 Pants long and comfortable for trekking.

Trunk
- 2 sweatshirts synthetic interior
- 1 Polar fleece
- 1 Fleece jacket or similar
- 1 Rain jacket or goretex.
- 1 Down jacket


Head
- Sunhat.
- Hat coat.
- Balaclava.
- Buff or scarf.
- 1 sunglasses 100% UV.
- 1 Ski goggles or blizzards.

 

Hands
- 2 pairs of gloves interior fine.
- 1 Pair of warm gloves in waterproof or goretex.


 

Expedition material
- Books, maps, Mp3 (optional).
- Camera, batteries.

- Binoculars (optional).
- Sunscreen (SPF 30-45).
- Sun lips (SPF 30-45).
- Insect repellent.
- Water bottle (at least 1 lt) with or without thermal liner. Camelbak (optional).
- Insulating mattress (neoprene or inflatable).
- Duct tape
- Toiletries bag.
- First aid kit for personal use.
- Headlamp with spare batteries.
- A 1 lt stainless steel thermos. with or without thermal cover (insulation) (optional).
- 1 Synthetic or down sleeping bag (- 15° C / - 20° C approximately).

Technical team
- Travel bag or backpack expedition for transportation of loads on donkeys or a backpack of at least 70 liters with pick holder and a place to fix the crampons. For the portaging of Base Camp to the High Camp I.
- A small and comfortable backpack of 40 lts.
- 1 Pair of double mountaineering boots (plastic outer) and temperature (- 20 ° C / - 25 ° C approximately).
- 1 Pair of crampons, according to the type of boot.
- 1 Pair of adjustable trekking poles (telescopic).
- 1 Pair of technical ice axes for technical mountain.
-  Harness, carabiners: safe and simple, 1 eight or atc rappel device, line, tape.
- 1 Climbing helmet.
- Stakes, bolts of ice, yumars, etc.
- At least 60 mts ropes.

   

Equipment rental:
Rental price in US$ (U.S. Dollars) per day:

 

Equipo Costo   Equipo Costo
- Personal tent (2 places)
5.00 us$
  - Down jacket
3.00 us$
- Personal tent (1 place)
4.00 us$
  - Crampons
3.50 us$
- Sleeping bag
4.00 us$
  - Plastic mountaineering boots
5.00 us$
- Simple mattress
1.50 us$
  - Harness
4.00 us$
- Inflatable mattress
3.00 us$
  - Glacier travel ice axes
3.00 us$
- Backpack (small 40 litres)
2.00 us$
  - Technical mountaineering ice axes (pair)
7.00 us$
- Backpack (large 70 litre)
5.00 us$
  - Climbing helmet
2.50 us$
- MSR Multifuel stove
4.00 us$
  - Gaiters or leggings
2.50 us$
   

ADDITIONAL PAYMENTS:

  • Extra services not mentioned in the itinerary.

  • Air flights from your country round-trip.

  • Extra nights of hotel in different cities during his stays.

  • Drinks and food in the cities of Lima, Huaraz, or another city during your stay.

  • Taxi, laundry, telephone calls, etc.

  • Extra days for delayed departures or arrivals anticipated.

  • Taxes at the Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima: TUUA Domestic Flights US$ 10.64 (S/. 31.81) - ​TUUA International flights US$ 30.74 (S/. 91.91) - departures flights aerodrome of Nazca USD 7.50 (S/. 24.50) per person.

  • The TUUA is the rate of use of airport and is included in the ticket only for some destinations. Taxes are determined by the Peruvian Government and are subject to change without notice.

  • Additional expenses which may arise in various situations, contingencies, such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides of land, political unrest, strikes, demonstrations, changes in the regulations of the government, etc.

  • Rescue, repatriation, medications, medical tests and hospitalization costs.

  • Medical insurance, travel, evacuation, rescue and emergency if necessary. (We can manage it).

  • Rental of equipment for trekking or mountain.

  • Nor include the first breakfast, lunch and the last dinner on the routes of trekking and climbing.
  • Not include tips.

  • Minimum 3 people in the group.
  • Departures in deprived of 1-2 people.

NOTE:

  • For your reservation early you will receive a discount of 10% (5 months minimum before dispatch).

  • Equipment for trekking and climbing that cannot bring, can rent it here in Huaraz. Scheler Artizon Trek EIRL offers rent of personal equipment for customers, taking into account the load limited with their airline tickets or who do not wish to purchase expensive equipment for the expedition.

  • Bus service from the city of Lima - Huaraz - Lima, economic service, special service, via MOVIL TOURS www.moviltours.com.pe

  • Bus service from the city of Lima - Huaraz - Lima, service special, via the CRUZ DEL SUR www.cruzdelsur.com.pe, OLTURSA www.oltursa.pe

  • Airplane service from the city of Lima - Huaraz - Lima, via LC PERU www.lcperu.pe

  • Airplane service from the city of Lima to any other city in Peru, via STAR PERU www.starperu.com

  • Airplane service from the city of Lima to any other city in Peru, via PERUVIAN AIRLINES www.peruvian.pe

  • Airplane service from the city of Lima to any other city in the Peru and South America via LAN PERU - LAN AIRLINES www.lan.com

  • Servicio of Hotel in Huaraz, HOTEL SAN SEBASTIAN *** HUARAZ www.sansebastianhuaraz.com
  • Servicio of Hotel in Huaraz, HOTEL CASA BLANCA** HUARAZ www.schelerhuayhuashtrek.com/hotel-casa-blanca-huaraz.htm
  • We also provide services of tours, hotel, transport, etc. in all Peru. Check our programs: scheler_artizon@hotmail.com, info@schelerhuayhuashtrek.com, info@trekkinghuayhuashperu.com.

   
Campo I y Huascarán Sur
 
Canaleta del nevado Huascarán
 
Campo II del Nevado Huascarán 6000 m.
 
Vista desde la Cumbre Huascarán, nevado Chopicalqui
Nevado Huascarán Norte 6655 m.
 
Cordillera Blanca desde la Cumbre del Huascarán
 
Pisco y Chacaraju desde la Ruta al Huascarán
 
Huascarán Norte desde la Cumbre del Sur

ROUTE MAP CLIMBING HUASCARAN MOUNTAIN

 

       
BUS TOURS TREK CORDILLERA BLANCA TREK CORDILLERA HUAYHUASH CLIMBINGBING
- Llanganuco Lake - 69 Lake - Pisco Base Camp - Cordillera Huayhuash - Diablo Mudo - Climbing Maparaju
- Chavín Archeological Remains - Quilcayhuanca trek - Huayhuash Pumarinri - Diablo Mudo - Climbing Huapi
- Pastoruri Mountain - Quilcayhuanca - Cojup Fast - Trekking Cordillera Huayhuash - Climbing Vallunaraju
- City Tours Huaraz - Monterrey - Quilcayhuanca - Cojup - Trek Cordillera Huayhuash Fast - Climbing Ishinca
- Cañón del Pato (Duck Canyon) - Olleros - Chavín - Cordillera Huayhuash - Cutatambo - Climbing Urus
- Honcopampa - Chancos - Cojup - Ishinca - Huayhuash Cutatambo 15 days - Climbing Vicos
- Paron lake - Ishinca - Cojup - Cordillera Huayhuash - Cajatambo - Climbing Pisco
- Stone Forest of Hatunmachay - Aquilpo - Ishinca - Huayhuash - Cajatambo Fast - Climbing Yanapaccha
  - Quilcayhuanca - Cojup - Ishinca - Cordillera Huayhuash - Churin - Climbing Tocllaraju
ACCLIMATIZATION - Quilcayhuanca Cojup Ishinca Aquilpo - Huayhuash Short-Trek 04 days - Climbing Ranrapalca
- Churup Lake - Honda - Ulta - Huayhuash Short-Trek 03 days - Climbing Copa
- 69 Lake - Ulta - Llanganuco - Huanucopampa - Huayhuash Trek - Climbing Chopicalqui
- Llaca Lake - Santa Cruz - Llanganuco - Huanucopampa Huayhuash Short-Trek - Climbing Huascarán
- Ahuac Lake - Llanganuco - Santa Cruz - Huanucopampa Huayhuash Short-Trek II - Climbing Alpamayo
- Wilcahuain - Monterrey - Huaraz - Santa Cruz - 69 Lake - Cordillera Huayhuash Crossing - Climbing Quitaraju
- Wilcacocha - Cordillera Negra - Santa Cruz - Yuraccorral - Huayhuash Crossing - Diablo Mudo - Climbing Artesonraju
- Uruscocha Lake - Santa Cruz - Colcabamba - Ulta - Huayhuash Huanucopampa Crossing
- Portachuelo - Llanganuco Valley - Ulta - Santa Cruz - Cashapampa  
- Viewpoint Rataquenua - Pucaventana - Cedros - Alpamayo - Pomabamba INFORMATION HUARAZ PERÚ - Callejón de Huaylas
- Rajucolta Lake 02 days - Cedros - Alpamayo - Vaqueria - Región Ancash - Province of Recuay
- Quilcayhuanca Tullpacocha Lake - Cedros - Alpamayo - Vaqueria - Ulta - Cordillera Blanca - Province of Huaraz
- Auquiscocha Lake 02 days - Cedros - Alpamayo - Santa Cruz - Huascaran National Park - Province of Carhuaz
- Aquilpo Lake 02 days - Cedros - Alpamayo - Llanganuco - Cordillera Huayhuash - Province of Yungay
- Ishinca Trek 02 days - Cedros - Alpamayo - 69 Lake - Huayhuash Reserved Zone - Province of Huaylas
     
Turismo, Trekking, Climbing Cordillera Blanca, Huayhuash,  Huaraz, Arequipa, Cusco, Lima, Perú